The two most common styles of centrepin reels are traditional true pins and centrepins with bearings. The spool of the genuine pin revolves around the pin itself. The end float of the spool can be adjusted using a grub screw in the hub. Smooth ball racers or something comparable are inside the spool of centrepins with ball bearings. The behavior of the two types of centrepins differs slightly.
When the reel is held horizontally, true pin reels rotate the most freely. Because the spool is simply resting on the grub screw that touches the pin’s end, there is very little resistance. The spool rests on the length of the pin while the reel is held vertical, providing slightly greater resistance to the spool’s spin. When it comes to bearing reels, the opposite is true. The bearings are most effective when the reel is vertical.
Bearing reel spools are generally, but not always, heavier, necessitating slightly greater force to overcome the spool’s inertia. However, once moving, they are slower to stop, increasing the risk of an overrun. Different types of bearings may cause reels to act differently. I am limited to reporting what I have seen. Is any of this relevant? The performance changes I just described are insignificant. Your thumb resting against the spool’s edge controls both reels in the end. Knowing the qualities of your reel might help you use it more effectively.
Features of Centrepin Reel
A centrepin should spin freely even if some reels include a movable drag. Its purpose is to reduce the spool’s free running, or perhaps I should say to reduce the spool’s runaway spinning. This is not challenging to play a fish against. There is also a ratchet or a clicker. When the ratchet is engaged, the spool can still revolve in any direction; it does not, however, prevent the spool from rotating in an unexpected direction. The majority of ratchets produce a lot of noise, which can be annoying to other fisherman. I only use the ratchet to transport the reel and only on rare occasions when fishing.
A line guide on some reels helps prevent tangles and line wrapping around the reel’s foot. Without a line guide, centrepin reels are easier to use, and you may discover that you don’t need one in the future. The outer diameter of the spool is frequently, but not always, used to indicate the reel size. A 412 inch reel with a 1 inch broad spool is a fine general purpose reel in my opinion.
- Machines were used to cut the frame, spool, and components.
- Lever/quick release spools are available on bushing variants, while coin slot screws are available on bearing models
- Lightweight spool with ports (in conventional or big-hole porting)
- A7 bearings with two protected rollers
- Reel foot with a low profile
- Spindle made of high-strength stainless steel
- Ratchet enables quick access and convenience of usage in the LHR or RHR radial position.
- A reel pouch made of neoprene is included.
- Diameter: 1 3/16″ broad (all) x diameter stated for the Kingfisher. 1 3/16″ wide x diameter mentioned for Labrador
- 5″/11.1oz., 4 5/8″/10.2oz., 4 3/8″/9.6oz., Kingfisher 5″/10.8oz Labrador
- Line Backing capacity: 5″ 250yd-10lb/70yds-20lb 200yd-10lb/50yds-20lb 4 5/8″ 150yd-10lb/40yds-20lb 4 3/8″
Line Loading on a Centrepin Reel
Fixed spool reels typically come with spare spools, allowing the fisherman to switch out the line whenever necessary. Spare spools are uncommonly included with centrepin reels, and they might be difficult to come by. This, I suppose, is due to a lack of demand for them. When changing the line, I’ll wrap the old line back onto a vacant line spool and wind latest line onto the reel because most fishermen utilize a centrepin for one activity at a time. To lasso the line to the spool, use a uni knot, a grinner knot, or my personal favorite, an arbour knot. To keep the line from slipping on the drum,
I like to cover the knot with electrical tape or masking tape. It also prevents successive layers of line from tangling with the knot. On a centrepin, I only use 50 to 70 yards of line. It’s sufficient for the tiny rivers where I fish. The top layers of line are less prone to bed in while long trotting or casting, which might cause stress. Avoid using heavy line or line intended to sink, such feeder line, if the reel will be used for trotting a float. Trotting with 3 to 4 pound monofilament is an excellent general purpose line for me.
Top Or Bottom
It is up to you whether the line comes out of the reel at the top or bottom. Regarding which is preferable, different people have different opinions, but I always cut the line off at the bottom. In the end, it’s up to you. For some reason, managing a fish feels more natural to me.
A centrepin can be kept in working order by keeping the reel clean and periodically rubbing a drop of light machine oil on the needle. Bearings are frequently sealed for life and do not require oil, but please refer to the reels’ documentation for further informational. You can remove either kind of reel’s spool by loosening a hook and sliding it off. Don’t spray light oils or softening oils on my reels.
Casting of Centrepin Reel (The loop cast)
The fixed spool reel is is better for casting distances more than twenty yards. Fortunately, I only need to cast a small distance most of the time, or fish from the rod tip and let the current take the float. The loop cast is the simplest and most commonly used cast. Insert some line between the reel and the initial rod eye to complete the loop cast. Simply swing the rig sideways and release the loop.
To cast a little bit further, draw line from the reel, the first eye, the first and second eyes, and so forth. Release the first loop first, then the second, while the rig is being swung out. I like to retain the decisive shot in my spare hand. Enabling me to better control the cast and load the rod. On small rivers, a loop throw is usually sufficient, and I believe this is the case for most of us. But, as far as I know, I’ll also explain in detail the Wallis cast.
The Walli’s cast’s main character is straightforwardIn the Wallis cast, having control over the reel is crucial. Hold the reel in such a way that the rim of the spool can be touched with a finger or thumb. I grip the rod between my thumb and forefingers while I hold it next to the reel, using my little finger to steer the spool. Others I know prefer to use their thumbs to manipulate the reel while holding the rod above it. The last split shot or the weight in your free hand might be used to hold the end tackle. Your thumb should be at a right angle to the reel as you remove 12 to 18 inches of line from it. Hook your thumb over the line rather than gripping it.
To lock the spool, press your rod hand’s little finger against it. Make a little bend in the rod. The pre-loading of the rod is a vital aspect of the Wallis cast since it aids in the flinging of the tackle. The cast will be less effective if the rod is underloaded. Overloading the tackle can cause it to jerk and spoil the cast.
Launch the Cast
Without releasing go of the end block or shifting the placement of your hands, begin the cast by turning your body in the direction of the target. Simply spin a few degrees to gently start the cast. Release the weighted rod; as soon as it is released, the end tackle will start to move. Continue casting with your rod hand, pushing back on the line connected under your thumb and taking your little finger off the reel at the same time. It’s as though you’re throwing your arms out wide. It’s critical to realize that speeding up the end tackle by drawing back with your free hand is crucial to gaining any distance in the cast. I think you should mainly focus on this action when you practice the Wallis.
Finish the Cast
Return your free hand to the rod, following the same path as before, allowing the line to pass through your fingers. At no point should you let grip of the line; it will almost definitely wrap itself around the reel. The final encounter will autonomously slow down and tumble into the sea as it runs out of power. Use your small finger to slow the spool down to suit the end tackle as the reel will continue to spin quickly. As soon as the tackle sprays down, completely stop the spool. I found that with a ball bearing reel, I can’t throw as far as I can with a true pin. It might just be me.
Casting from the side necessitates additional space on the bank. When swimming in a restricted space, the cast can be changed to an underarm cast. Cast underarm like you would with a fixed spool reel, but add the line tugging to rotate the reel like you would with a side cast. From a high bank, an under arm cast is also effective. After every cast, check the reel to ensure there are no knots, and always chuck and check. To utilize a centrepin, you do not need to master the Wallis cast.
I’d hate to believe that the Wallis cast has turned anyone away from the centrepin reels. The Wallis cast is a little bit longer than the loop cast, but I typically only need to cast a rod span or two to trot a float down a river, so the loop cast works just fine. You can use the handles to quickly reel in, however batting the reel is a faster option. To retrieve the line, simply flick the spool and rotate it up. When using reels without a line guide, batting is simpler.
Utilization of a centrepin Reel
The control of a float galloping along a river is best accomplished with centrepins. A float’s speed can be regulated by hand or by the drag on the reel. The drag can be regulated to let the line out at a reasonable pace on a section of river with a stable, steady flow, which is acceptable. The float’s speed can also be manually adjusted. Typically, you can do this by holding the rod with your fingers or your thumb close enough to the rim of the spool. When fishing with a heavy float in a high current, the float and line will be swept downstream, ripping the line from the reel.
In order to stop the line from releasing, you might even need to press your thumb on the spool. There may not be enough force on the float to pull line off the spool in slow moving waters or during the summer when a river is at its lowest. In these circumstances, you can manually control the float’s progress by turning the spool. To command the float’s speed, lightly swipe the spool or spin it with your finger. Then there are moments when a river is as quiet as a pool of water, requiring no effort. One advantage of the centrepin is that the fisherman has control over the float regardless of the conditions.
Target and Play
To get a bite, all you have to do is lock the reel with your thumb and strike as usual. One benefit of fishing in running water is that if you miss, you can just let the float drift downstream. You can blow long enough to feel if you’ve connected. You develop an understanding of how to play a fish without yanking the line or dragging the hook. Knowing when to release the line and when it’s okay to pull against the fish requires practice. Up until you become aware of the limitations of your tackle, plan on losing a few fish. Use your fingers or thumb to exert pressure on the spool to control the fish’s run.
To manipulate the fish, you can use the palm of your free hand, which is known as palming. Maintain control by applying slight pressure to the spool. As the fish starts to tire, use the grips to wind it into the net. When I’m playing a fish, it helps me to be conscious of what the rod is doing. You can perceive the fish pulling, which provides you a fair assumption of how powerful the fish is or isn’t. I simply utilize my peripheral vision to keep an eye on the rod while focusing my attention on the fish.
Float fishing with centrepin reels on choppy rivers is more popular today than it has been in the last 20 years.
Many anglers are under the impression that centrepin reels casting issues are a reason not to use one because of the repeated airings of vintage TV programmes like A Passion for Angling and Go Fishing with John Wilson. A basic cast, in which a length of line is taken off the drum with your fingertips, should be sufficient unless you need to cast more than a few rod lengths out. Most fishermen spend years perfecting the Wallis cast.